The Long Way Round - 2018

We set our alarm for 6:00 am to catch the tide through the Sound of Iona.  There had been rain overnight but the sun was peeping though the clouds already, as we picked our way carefully through the labyrinth of rocks surrounding our anchorage. In the still morning light, we motored past the famous Iona Cathedral where Saint Columba had founded a monastery in 563 to bring Christianity to Scotland and the north of England.  Later in the day, this would be crowded with visitors crossing to Iona from the adjacent island of Mull but for now it was deserted. Iona Abbey Then we set a course to the uninhabited island of Staffa where we would find "Fingals Cave" with its curious black, hexagon shaped basalt columns.  These were formed when molten lava solidified in a particular way resulting in contraction and cracking to form the long columns.  Despite the calm conditions, the sea surrounding the island surged against the cliffs and we kept a safe distance off to avoi...

Yesterday, before setting sail, we decided to visit the ruins of the old priory, about a mile inland.  To make sure we could find it in the peaty moorland, we took the hand-bearing compass and I carefully showed Rosie how to navigate in rough ground.  We walked a long way but we never did find the ruins. Doug Demonstrates the Handbearing Compass This continuous sunshine is beginning to worry me.  I was told that it was supposed to be wet with clouds of biting insects in the Western Isles of Scotland.  Instead, we have yet another day of glorious sunshine and only very few bites so far (even Rosie, who normally attracts the little devils).  I’m not sure that we are enjoying the full authentic experience.  Still, there is plenty of time yet. Oronsay looking SW to Jura Then another short sail of about 20 miles, between islands, over clear sparkling waters with almost no waves.  This is beginning to feel a bit like Greece, although quite ...

The tides were nearly at springs and timing mattered, so with gentle headwinds, we left the anchorage early, from behind Eilean a Chuirn in the Ardmore Islands and tacked northwards under cloudless skies. Drifting Into the Sound of Islay We arrived at the southern entrance to the Sound of Islay as the tide began to turn northwards.  The gentle winds veered behind us and we drifted onwards, unsuspecting! The Sound of Islay The wind freshened and backed and soon after lunch we were spanking along, doing up to 11 knots over the ground.  To starboard, the Paps of Jura stood impressively, well rounded.  To port, more distilleries. As we approached the northern end of the sound we were suddenly hit by very strong katabatic winds, descending from the Paps.  Luckily we were on a beam reach, so the boat was not pinned too far over.  The genoa was quickly reduced and then a reef went into the mainsail.  We were still over-pressed, ...

Having cleaned the boat yesterday and with the sun still shining strongly, we decided to take the coastline walk to see 3 of the local whisky distilleries, which are a big industry on Islay.  It was rather a long hot walk down a fenced tarmac footpath (the distilleries want to make sure that you do not get lost along the way or even on the way back if you have been sampling their products). The Ardbeg Distillery - next to the sea Our lunch at the café in the furthest distillery - Ardbeg - unusually consisted of food, unlike many of the other visitors who chose to try a set of 5 different whiskies instead! This week is the Islay Malt and Music festival and the distilleries have thrown open their doors to visitors from all over the world.  We met some Americans from Florida who had booked 9 months ago for their visit to the distilleries and were looking forward to being allowed to fill their own whisky bottle. While doing our washing at the machine in the Harbour Offic...

The local headland, just south of Port Ellen, Islay, was spectacular, the night before last, first with fireworks and then with a large bush fire, set off by the sparks from those fireworks.  We had a ring-side seat in the marina.  The local fire engine couldn’t get close enough to intervene, but luckily the wind was blowing east, towards the point, which naturally confined the damage.   I just hope that there were no nesting birds there.   The headland in question is called Rubh’ A ‘Chunnlein, which shows you just how fortunate we are that the locals speak English too. We started our day at the Achamore Gardens on Gigha, created by Sir James Horlick (think drink), now a little overgrown and unkempt but in a way that I very much liked.   Scented azaleas and bright rhododendrons were in full flower. Achamore Garden pond Rosie in the Bamboo, Achamore Gardens Our destination for the day, Islay, 10 miles distant, was clearly visible from t...

At anchor in the beautiful surroundings of West Tarbert Bay, Gigha, we spent the morning in artistic pursuits (more pursuit than achievement in some cases).  Rosie painted and I strummed my guitar and sang.  It was hard to interpret the loud cries of the seabirds all around me but I like to think that they were calls of appreciation. Barometer steady.   Skies clear and sunny. We enjoyed a gentle sail around the island to the main harbour of Ardminish, where we picked up a visitors mooring buoy.   Rosie fished on the way, as we drifted gently downwind, but luckily there is a good village shop in Ardminish because the fish were not interested in her allures (or should that be lures, I get confused). Ardminish Mooring The smart new landing pontoon was temporary home to lots of lobsters in cages, hung from the handrails.  I hope that they don't worry too much about their circumstances but they do look tasty. Ardminish Landing Pontoon ...

It was a gentle start in the Crinan Basin, awaiting Roger and Bob to lock down from the canal above to join us in the final (sea) lock.  Our bodies were freshly showered and Rapport fully watered.  Then out we motored, onto a calm and almost windless sea, around to the local boatyard to top up the fuel tank. Rapport in Crinan Basin We motored and sailed 25 miles south, in bright sunshine, to the beautiful island of Gigha.  When the cool wind blew, we put up the sails and put on more clothes.  When it fell calm, we switched on the engine and went back to single layers of clothing.  We reached West Tarbert Bay (yes, another Tarbert) in the late afternoon. With southerly winds forecast, we tried to anchor in the south of the bay, but the anchor failed to hold in the thick kelp, even with a fisherman (old fashioned anchor, normally good in weed and rock) in tandem.  So we moved to the north end of the bay and immediately dug the anchor firmly into sand....

We waited a day for the rainy weather to end, moored alongside our cosy pontoon at the Cairnbaan Hotel.  To while away the time, we followed a walking trail that took us quite a bit further than we had expected through a bog-land forest.  There were boardwalks and wooden planks to help us cross the wettest parts but somehow we still managed to end up with soaked walking boots.  After that we felt that we deserved yet another fine supper at the Hotel! Next day the weather was dry and we set off to tackle the remaining locks with our fellow canal-boaters, Roger and Bob on their yacht, "Bonnie".  We paired up with Bonnie because getting through the locks is much easier if you can share the jobs with two more people. A typical Crinan Canal lock Today we had 4 uphill locks and 5 downhill locks to pass through before the exit at Crinan Basin. The Lock Keeper and Bob with Rosie winding the sluice valve Rosie and Bob worked the locks while Doug and Roger drov...

If I mention the weather quite a lot, it’s because we small boats are very beholden to the god of wind.   Strong winds are not much of a problem in themselves (we have a man who puts in reefs as required) but it’s the nasty big waves that affect us most, flinging us about the place. The boat is designed for waves, so doesn’t mind them at all.   It’s the crew that have to hang on, braced against the movement, especially in the galley and heads! Round here, we are surrounded by land in all directions, so the fetch tends to be limited and there are not the open ocean waves and swells that can get really large.   Those will return later in our travels, between the islands of the Hebrides and further north. So there was not much excuse for my mistake, as we ran north under genoa alone, from Tarbert to Ardrishaig at the entrance to the Crinan Canal.   The boat was rolling downwind but in quite a gentle way.   The coffee was brewing on the top of the gimb...

From Loch Ranza we sailed on a broad reach in frisky conditions, under all plain sail.  We touched nine knots in one gust, which is somewhat faster than hull speed, so we were becoming semi-displacement!  We arrived quite quickly in East Loch Tarbert. There are a lot of Tarberts around here, so they can get confusing.   The name  "tarbert" is derived from Gaelic and is a term for an inlet or loch separated from the one opposite by a small ridge of land, or isthmus.   The Vikings sometimes used to shift their boats over the ridges, to save sailing the long way around.  With a substantial keel, we'll have to keep sailing. East Loch Tarbert Entrance - View From Castle With lots to see and interesting local walks, we would have liked to stay longer in Tarbert, but while the rest of the country was expecting a heat wave, heavy rain was forecast here.  We therefore decided to press on to the Crinan Canal and sit it out there. We have ...

That was the statement from the crew of another yacht just after we had rowed ashore in Lochranza.  I pointed to the wonderful views surrounding us but they were un-moved.  So, this is what we found in Lochranza: The View Red Deer on the golf course Seals on the shore The Castle Wild Sheep And then there was the lovely Lochranza Hotel where we had coffee and scones watching the Royal wedding - just perfect :)

As well as a pleasant town, pretty half ruined castle, very good restaurants and friendly people, Rothesay also boasts some wonderful Victorian toilets and showers, situated conveniently for the marina. Urinals Built to Last and Mosaic Floor Since Queen Victoria, inflation has been severe at times and it now costs 40 pence to use the toilet.  With such beautiful and sparkling facilities, this is still money well spent! Marble Cistern with Viewing Window From Rothesay we sailed gently north, through the famous Kyles of Bute.  We had vague ideas of anchoring in the Burnt Islands or Caladh Harbour but their gentle beauty came too soon in the day and so we continued back south, down West Kyle. Drifting Through the North Channel, Burnt Islands The breeze freshened from the WSW and we beat back out towards the Isle of Arran.  The forecast was for strong southerly winds and so Loch Ranza (name as charted, Lochranza on some maps) looked like a well sheltered p...

Today dawned sunny and calm in lovely Rothesay, so we decided to follow yesterday's advice from the berthing master when he told us "you really ought to visit the nearby stately home: Mount Stuart House".  We were a bit surprised when the bus veered from the public road and set off up the drive to deliver us to the Visitors' Centre.  Drawing to a halt, the bus driver called out "Mount Stuart House" and then added "tha beg hoose" at the top of his voice. "Tha Beg Hoose" We found ourselves on a tour around this peculiar house that was built in red sandstone for the Third Marquess of Bute in the 19th Century.  He was a very rich man (his personal income was said to be as much as a third of the entire earnings of the UK at one time) and he spared no expense to have it built exactly as he wanted. The house was started in 1879 and was mostly finished in 1900.  However, the craftsmen continued working on up until the First World War w...

Back south, from Lochgoilhead to Rothesay, on Bute, was a very gentle motor-sail in hot sunshine.  It was more motoring than sailing, in the light breezes.  It was a great relief to have the propeller running smoothly again.  It was also a relief to be able to shed oilskins and layers of clothing. Very soon, we passed Castle Carrick, one of many castles in this area, which are often quite austere.  One gets the impression that there used to be a lot of strong disagreements around here. Castle Carrick The gentle conditions gave us plenty of time to admire the wildlife.  However, photographing it proved beyond us.  Below is Rosie's picture of a gannet, diving for a fish, just after it had dived!  We could have taken a beautiful seal picture and a picture of two small dolphins, playing together, but they also dived before we could get close enough.  It seems that one needs a very long camera lens, a very steady platform (preferably not a bo...

We have spent the day moored in Lochgoilhead at the head of Loch Goil as the name suggests.  It's a rather beautiful place and very quiet in the light winds today. Rapport on her Lochgoilhead visitor's mooring with misty mountain clouds behind The loch is used by the Ministry of Defence (MoD) for experimental research and there is a floating Noise Range Laboratory a little way up the loch from us.  I noticed the MoD boat driving off to this while I was eating my porridge in the cockpit this morning.  Soon afterwards we heard a low frequency "ping" noise through the hull that is repeated about every 15 seconds and gets to be rather annoying.  It can be heard most clearly from inside the boat but is also discernible from on deck.  I don't know how the locals put up with this! I read on Wikipedia that there is a local phenomenon known as the "Lochgoilhead hum" which is described like this:   A low frequency noise (LFN) was first reported by resid...

Yesterday (already it seems so long ago), after walking on the peaks of Holy Island, we continued our sail north under sunny skies and with a gentle (force 3/4) following wind.   This was much better; beautiful cruising through the mountains and it’s almost hot in the afternoons!   20 miles later we dropped anchor in Kames Bay, for a good sleep. This morning, Rosie decided that we should run up the Firth of Clyde, into Loch Long and then to the very top of Loch Goil.   This decision was based on a pretty picture in the Cruising Scotland guide book as well as her desire to see the nuclear submarine ammunition facility in Loch Long (it takes all sorts).   Wind and tide also promised well.   However, things did not go as planned. The day dawned cold and clear and still.   The anchor came up in Kames Bay and we motored out onto a calm sea with no wind.   Almost immediately the engine stuttered, as something hit the propeller.   Then there wa...