The Second Biggest Fish in the World





The 6th June was a very long day.  Up early, we motor-sailed south-west, to drop anchor, 3 hours later, in Mingulay Bay.

Mingulay from the Northeast
Since 1912, Mingulay has been an uninhabited island.  It was then that the population gave up the struggle to survive there, and left for more fertile lands.  Part of their problem was that the main anchorage, where we now lay, is wide open to the east and often has a seriously bad swell, preventing boats loading and unloading.  For us however there were gentle winds and almost no swell.


Anchored in Mingulay Bay
We paddled ashore to a beautiful beach, trying not to disturb a large seal, sunbathing nearby.  And then we walked up to the old village, slowly collapsing into ruins.  Roofs were all gone and many stone walls were half fallen into the vegetation and wild flowers.  It was both beautiful and poignant.

Ruined Houses in Mingulay
We met a group of climbers, who were camping nearby.  They had been scaling the high western cliffs, with the Atlantic crashing below.  The rock is gneiss, very hard and reliable, ideal for such sport.  I used to enjoy a little climbing but I didn’t envy them at all.  I’ll stick to sailing!

Then back to the boat and, not wanting to stay long in an exposed anchorage, we pulled up the anchor, to sail around the island and see those wild western shores.  The wind increased and we hoisted sail.  Thousands of seabirds wheeled in all directions.


West Shore of Mingulay
After the quiet beauty of Mingulay, we set sail back toward our next destination, Canna, one of the Small Isles.  The wind had increased but it seemed to be a sea breeze that faded away as the afternoon progressed.  Eventually we were motoring in a flat calm.  But how brilliant that proved to be!  A fin on the surface, then a tail fin following it:  Our first Basking sharks!

Shark Approaching!
We stopped the engine and drifted and a shark turned to investigate us.  We could see it clearly below us, perhaps 10 metres long and perhaps weighing about the same as our boat!  

Shark Below
The Shark Departs
After that wonderful experience, we motored on to Canna Harbour, dropping anchor just before sunset.

Entering Canna Harbour at Sunset
(past the anchored ketch 'Irene')





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