Brewery At The Edge of the World

From sleepy Scalpay to spirited Stornoway was a gentle afternoon run up the bleak and beautiful coast of Harris and Lewis.  We sailed into Stornoway harbour and found ourselves in a real town, with busy traffic, shops, restaurants and bars.  The harbour master won our affection by complementing us on our smooth sail handling as we came in.  In fact we didn't do anything very clever but the previous yacht had somehow managed to hit a portside channel marker, so I think that the competition made us look better!

Fresh from the sea, our pockets full of money (actually a debit card), me and me maties (actually Rosie) headed for the bar (actually an Indian restaurant).  So that song didn’t apply too well. 

With re-victualing and washing all dealt with, it was time for some sightseeing.  A local walk around the harbour took us along some lovely tracks, via a cafe (as usual).

Stornoway From Lews Castle Grounds

We travelled by local bus to the Callanish Stones (which actually spread over several sites).  At first, coachloads of tourists flooded the site but after we had walked to two other local sites and checked out the cafe (of course), all was quieter and more impressive.

Callanish I Standing Stones

Callanish II Standing Stones

Then on to the Arnol Blackhouse.

The Arnol Blackhouse

Inside The Blackhouse - Peat Fire Burning

Why is a house called a blackhouse?  Is it the lack of windows?  Is it the smoky interior from the peat fire, burning without a chimney?  There seems to be some debate about this but I’m told that it’s an inaccurate translation of the Gaelic, relating to white houses (more modern ones with windows).  That sounds unlikely to me, but should a glasshouse be called a greenhouse?

Rosie & Doug At The Front Door

Rosie At The Barn Door - Roofless Blackhouse

Later during our stay, we visited the local brewery, which had parochial colour, but the beer was not even close to the standards of Bere Brewery.  Is that home I hear, a-calling us?