Rusting In The Outer Hebrides


A cracking close reach brought us to North Harbour, Scalpay, North Harris (as opposed to all the other Scalpays).  As we arrived off the Sound of Scalpay, the wind rapidly increased to about force 6/7 and we urgently dropped the main, as Rapport began to overpower her rudder.  We continued into the Sound at 6.5 knots under headsail only and as we approached the bridge (20 metres clearance, enough for us) the wind dropped away again, as it does around here.

Rapport on Pontoon, Scalpay Harbour
To me “Outer Hebrides” has always sounded wild and remote, far from the normal world.  In fact it’s an easy day sail from mainland Scotland (in this kind of weather).  When you arrive from the East, the scenery is suddenly lower and more gentle, although still rugged.  The way of life is more gentle too, with older values and no buses or shops on Sundays.  So, we ate on board again.

The weather is changing.  The wind is now firmly from westerly directions and there was gentle rain in the night.  Rain; we remember that!

Old Ship's Boiler, Scalpay Harbour
Scalpay Island next day was beautiful in the clear air and cool breeze.  Paths lead over peaty moorland, past little lochs, to the lighthouse.

Scalpay Lighthouse, Shiant Island in Distance
The lighthouse was unusual in that you could wander freely around the disused buildings and equipment.  There are plans to make it more visitor-friendly and better preserved, which would be a very good thing, but I loved seeing it as it is, musty and evocative.  Mattresses rot in old bedrooms.  A pool table collects bird droppings.  Steel machinery rusts.

Base of Original Lighthouse, Built In 1787:  Full Of Guano!


Disused Fog Horn
From thence, back over the island by winding path, to the boat.  The dry peat was springy underfoot, the boggy patches all dried out after weeks without significant rain.

Scalpay, View Towards South Harris


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